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lucarnier

Colour Packer Setup !

A Question on the pro´s !

Whats the right setup for a packer ?  

Air gape and Stroke , front and back Spring thikness ... ?

Many Thanks for answer

Very Happy


Michael from Belgium
admin

hey bud
i use 15g front and 16g back spring, i tend to have my front spring not much longer than a standard liner, some machines i do use real long springs but i find they are better for blending setups rather than solid colour...but again that depends how you tune them. anyway i use a big thick heavy armature bar, 8-10wrap coils, the airgap depends how fast you want your machine run... for solid heavy colour id have the airgap pretty small but for smooth blending kinda colour id have a bigger airgap... it depends on the angle of the contact screw aswell so its hard to say a set measurement but most people tend to use a nickel for a colour packers then adjust if necessary.
as for the stroke... i have a big long stroke on my colour packers so tha armature bar flutters when you hold it up to a tv or computer monitor...it makes a kinda mexican wave effect. do you have a powersupply which can give you a reading from the multimeter? that makes tuning alot easier if you are not to sure about it. it might be easier if you upload a few pics aswell. hope this helps mate... if you cant get it sorted just give me a shout and upload pics and il be able to help more.
lucarnier

Hi Admin !

A lot of thanks !   Very Happy  Very Happy  Very Happy

I will take a photo an than uploading this, and explain my settings . I Think  that is the best.



Greatz from Belgium
lucarnier

Hi at all !

So , here a photo ! This is one of my Schader´s ! The front spring is a long 18´ Eikon , rear 18 !
The armatur bar is 40 mm , The gap between the armature bar and the back stem is 10 mm (usually for the liners i trying to have around 8mm) . For Schading my airgap ((will say when i pusch the armature bar down, the gap between the front spring and the contact screw) is 1,85 to 2 mm, for colouring 2,5 mm !

I tell you that i learning the tattoo Art ! For lining and shading i have no problems. For colouring
i have some Problems, because i must go often over the skin. I use 7 + 9 M1 and 9 RS. The colurs
are Eternal, Intenze and Sailor Jerry ! With Sailor Jerry a have some Problems because the colour is verry thick !

Whats going wrong ???


Thank you verry much for Help !

Greats from Belgium ,  Michael


@Admin !  " do you have a powersupply which can give you a reading from the multimeter?"

I just buy this one ( chinese Copy of the EMS 200, it is o the way ) usually i use a Digital medical power supply with 0-3A. So when you can give my the duty cycles for the different setups, thats fine Very Happy  Very Happy . Ok, and sorry my bad english !

Idea  Idea
admin

hi mate
the springs are for a liner more than anything. some guys use 18g on every setup but i always go with 15-16g for colour packers. get some 15 or 16g springs... 15g front and 16g back if you can. if not then dont worry because 15s or 16s will be better than 18s anyway. id take the bend out of the front spring a bit aswell it looks like its a on a angle to much...not much but a little bit so just bend/roll it the opposite way so it is a bit closer to the grommet. the stroke looks ok to me....maybe slightly to big but its hard to tell without it in my hands. i would ignore the rules about airgaps and just keep adjusting the contact screw until it sounds good and doesnt stop running when you touch the grommet. the easiest way (way i learned) is just to keep adjusting the contact screw and the angle of the contact screw and lay some colour on your legs/feet.  once you change the springs and make the angle of the front spring and the stroke a tiny bit smaller, hook it up to the powersupply and run it... keep adjusting the contact screw until it sounds good then once you like it place your finger on the grommet... if the machine bogs down or stops running then turn the screw a bit more. im sure your get there in the end mate... just lots of tweaking lol. i dont sell power supplies sorry but the copy of the EMS is not bad... some are crap and only last a few weeks but 90% are pretty good. i have one myself and its lasted a year or so now. forgot to mention id start with having the contact screw right on the tip of the front spring rather than farther down it.
lucarnier

Hi Admin !

Thanks a lot for your support !  Very Happy  Very Happy

I will try this setups soon and give reply !


Greatz from Belgium !
vplumme

Color Packer Setup

I brought this color packer because it uses Eikon Armature Bar (heavy), Eikon 10 wrap coils, and Eikon 20g front, and Eikon 20g rear springs along with a 47uf capacitor.  It seems like a standard setup for a shader.  I then ordered an Eikon 15g Front and Eikon 16g Rear spring.  The problem came when I switched the springs.  I wasn't paying attention to how the washers on the spring saddle was placed.  For example, when I got it, I fired it up and it sounded perfect.  It had the beautiful flutter and the air gap was about 4mm.  Then like a dumbass, I thought well I will put the 15g and 16 on.  I know when assembling the armature bar back to the frame, the spring sits on the saddle then you have the washer on top, right?  Well, when I assembled it like we all normally would, the flutter was gone.  So then I thought well maybe the washer goes below the spring ( or in other words, put the washer on the saddle first to add height) to bring back the flutter.  That didn't work so well, so I adjusted the angle of the contact screw and felt I just messed things up even worst.  I'm so depressed because I've researched so much about armature bar, springs, capacitors, coils, and machine tuning, but now I can't fix mines. I've spent hours switching the springs back and forth and same condition.  I've also switched the height of armature bar/spring assembly by placing the washer above it and below it.  I've played with the angle of the contact screw and same result.  I've adjusted the contact screw and trying to keep it about a nickle gap and larger and still the same result.  When I run the machine I try to get to sounding good.  unloaded where I get the nice flutter, but once I place the rubber band on, I have to crank the machine up to over 12 volts.  This sucks! and I still don't get the throw. I need help.  I just found out that machine building is not as easy as one may think because even the contact screw and it's angle can throw your machine off.

If you're able to help, I would appreciate it.

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